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    Clay vs Ceramic vs Composite Poker Chips: Which Should You Buy?

    That “14 gram clay” set isn’t clay. Most cheap “clay” chips are plastic, and the heavy ones usually get their weight from a metal slug. Ceramic chips aren’t ceramic either (they’re a hard printed plastic). And the real compression-molded chips weigh about 10 grams and cost $3 to $5 each used. So heavier isn’t better, and the thing players actually notice is cheaper than any upgrade.

    Chapters

    1. 0:00 — The “14 gram clay” set
    2. 0:24 — Clay vs ceramic: the usual answer
    3. 0:42 — What a real chip weighs
    4. 1:03 — Every kind of chip, cheapest first
    5. 1:24 — 1. Plain plastic (~3¢ a chip)
    6. 1:52 — 2. The 11.5 g set (~10¢)
    7. 2:23 — 3. 14 g “clay” (~20¢)
    8. 2:56 — The fridge-magnet test
    9. 3:12 — 4. Ceramic (~50¢)
    10. 3:45 — 5. The real compression-molded kind ($3–$5)
    11. 4:26 — Heavier isn’t better
    12. 4:48 — What players actually notice
    13. 5:19 — Sound and feel
    14. 5:38 — Who should pay more
    15. 5:57 — What I’d buy
    16. 6:29 — What chips does your group use?
    Read the full transcript (auto-captions)

    The case clicks open, the box says 14-g clay, and the chip in your hand is heavy enough to feel like real money. But, most chips sold as clay aren't clay, and the chips casinos actually use are lighter than that one and cost 15 to 25 times more per chip. You paid about $100 for that set because everybody says clay is what casinos use, and heavier means better. So, I priced every kind of chip, checked what each one is really made of, and read what players say about them at the table. Because when you type clay versus ceramic poker chips into a search bar, the answer sounds settled. Clay is the real casino chip, ceramic is the custom one, and the heavier the chip, the more it feels like a casino. So, the sets lean into it, and the boxes say 11 and 1/2 g, 13 and 1/2, 14, as if the number on the box was the quality. And then you look up what a casino chip weighs. The chips used in American casinos typically weigh about 10 g. So, the 14-g chip in your case is about 40% heavier than the real thing. One chip reviewer who broke a pile of these open found the premium casino-style chips at about 9 to 10 and 1/2 g, while the heavy plastic ones reached 13 and 1/2 or even 15 g because of a metal slug in the middle. And what nobody tells you is that the thing players notice most at your table has almost nothing to do with what the chip is made of, and it's one of the cheapest fixes there is. That'll make sense once we've gone through every kind of chip, cheapest first. Plain plastic, the 11 and 1/2 g set, the heavy 14-g clay, ceramic, and then the real casino kind, which is the surprise at the end because most people can't even buy it new. The cheapest chip is plain plastic, and a thousand of them cost about $30, which is about 3 cents a chip. These are the light, hollow-feeling ones, and one commenter remembered his dad keeping a set of 200 interlocking plastic chips back in the '70s. And honestly, they work. The same reviewer said the cheapest plastic chips in the world still serve as poker chips because they're round, they're colored, and everybody can tell what's going on. The con is the feel because they slide around, they don't stack well, and the game starts to feel like a board game night. The second rung is the set most new hosts actually buy. 500 11 and 1/2 g chips in an aluminum case for about 40 to 50 dollars, so about 10 cents a chip. The listings called them clay or clay composite and they usually have dice stripes around the edge and a sticker in the middle. But when that reviewer broke one open, he found plastic around a flat metal slug and he said the slug is there for rigidity and for weight. Even the encyclopedia page on poker chips shows a plain plastic set and notes it's often sold as clay composite. And under one of our own videos, somebody wrote that friends don't let friends play with dice chips. The third rung is the one in your cart. 14 gram clay and a 500 set runs about 100 dollars, so about 20 cents a chip. This is where the heavier is better idea lives because these feel solid and they make a nice click when you drop one. The sellers called them clay composite and the reviewers point was that clay is a common additive in plastic, so the word clay got stretched by marketing for a long time. Heavy plastic chips usually get their weight from a metal insert and one commenter with a heavy set found that out the fun way because he'd heard his kind had no metal slug and then he noticed his chips were magnetic. So the con is that you're paying extra for weight that casino chip doesn't even have. And you can check your own set tonight with a fridge magnet. Hold it against the chip and if the chip jumps to it, there's a steel slug inside, which tells you a good part of that weight is metal. If it doesn't stick, that doesn't prove it's real clay because some heavy chips are just a denser plastic, but at least you'll know what you're holding. The fourth rung is ceramic and a 500 set of 10 gram ceramic chips is about 260 to 270 dollars, so about 50 cents a chip. And the twist is in the name because ceramic chips aren't ceramic. They're a hard injection molded plastic and the whole face gets printed edge to edge, which is why they're the ones with clear numbers and custom art. They've been around since the mid 80s and some casinos use them. The reviewer cut one open with a hacksaw and found plain white plastic inside. The con is the feel because ceramics are a little slicker than clay and one player wrote that he'd only pick them over China clay if his chips were going to take a beating or he wanted a custom set. And the fifth rung is the surprise, the real casino kind, compression molded clay composite. Even these aren't pure clay because no gaming chips since at least the 1950s has been 100% clay, but these are the chips you felt on a casino table and they weigh about 10 g with no metal slug at all. The catch is that you mostly can't buy them new because the best known maker only sells to licensed casinos and card rooms now. So, the way into a real set is used chips and those trade at about $3 to $5 each, which is $1,500 or more for 500 chips. The lightest chip on this list is the most expensive one by a mile and there's an honest con besides the price because older casino chips were often weighted with lead. The reviewer's advice was simple, keep the old ones away from kids who might chew on them. So, look at the whole ladder again. 3 cents, 10 cents, 20 cents, 50 cents, and $3 to $5 and the weight goes the wrong way. I'd been thinking about it backwards because I assumed the number on the box was the quality, so 14 g had to beat 11 and a half, but the heaviest chips are padded out with metal and the two kinds casinos actually use, ceramic and compression molded clay, both sit at about 10 g. And that brings us back to the cheap thing players actually notice. When people comment about their chips, it's almost never the grams. One player said his set came with way too many greens and not enough whites. So, every time he has to remind everybody that the greens are a dollar. Under our own set of videos, someone said there were too many denominations and under a buying guide, someone picked a 10 g ceramic because it's simple and easy to read with nice colors. So, what makes a night run smoothly is chips that read at a glance and colors that are split right for your game and that cost nothing extra because it's about which set you pick, not what it's made of. >> [music] >> The one place the material really does matter is the sound and the feel when you stack and riffle. >> [music] >> When the reviewer grabbed a stack of casino chips and a stack of ceramics, he said they sound different, not worlds apart, but different. And for a 25 cent, 50 cent game like most of ours, our chips video counts out exactly how to split a 500 set and the short version is count the colors, not the pieces. >> [music] >> So, who should still buy the expensive ones? If you play every single week, the feel in your hands adds up over hundreds of hours and a ceramic set with the numbers printed on is the upgrade that lasts. And if you collect used casino chips are the one kind that tends to hold its value because you can buy 500 and later sell them for close to what you paid minus the fees. [music] So here's what I'd do. For a first set, get the 11 and 1/2 gram 500 set for about $45 and make sure the colors fit your game. For a weekly game, skip the 14 gram upgrade and go straight to ceramic with printed numbers. And if you're a collector, buy used casino chips and enjoy them because they're the real thing. And whatever chips you end up with, the night only ends clean if every buy-in and rebuy gets written down so the chips match the money. That's why I built HG Poker which logs every buy-in and rebuy and tells you when the count is balanced. It takes no bets, holds no money, and moves no money. It just keeps count. So back to the case clicking open. That heavy chip in your hand is mostly plastic and a little piece of metal and that's fine as long as the colors make sense for your game. What surprised me most was that the chips casinos use are the light ones. So tell me in the comments, what chips does your group use? And if you're still working out how many you need, our chips video counts it out for a home cash game. >> [music]

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